Thursday, September 24, 2009

shapers night at the surfing history museum at currumbin


bob mctavish talkin about his quad fin theories, he reasons that the rear fins should be placed a proportionate distance to the size of the surfers foot....  thus enabling the heel and toes to engage each fin more, giving a more connected ride, also the rear fins are only single foiled same as your standard front pair....  he definitely got my attention.... all the test pilots that i spoke tool had stupid ear to ear grins and said they were converted....  after spending some time in discussion with him i will be trying this theory out for sure on my next quad....

listening to bob was definitely the nights highlight, a charismatic but humble guy who has seen it all come and go, when i asked him about his best session ever he said "this morning!... i got 45 min in before the wind kicked up", and later when asked about his favourite era of surfing he said "right now, pointing to the quad" the man is definitiley current...as fresh as ever... and is in line with my own philosophy of performance, outside the mainstream arena.... good on ya bob.



a younger mctavish



" ...i found noosa in about 59' but no one believed me till 63'..."



Friday, September 18, 2009

i miss the central coast..


Chad Waldron's Momentary Film Regarding a Wooden Board from Waldron Bros Production on Vimeo.


this makes me homesick to see the boys getting so many good waves, so many familiar breaks, so many memories and good times, countless sessions....

my quiver 9/9/09 - 6'4" alaia, 5'10" fish, 6'4" pintail quad, 5'8" mini simmons, 5'10 rocket twin fin

Thursday, September 17, 2009

alaia action



these boys know how to ride the alaia.. check it out.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

huey dont like spongers..



now we dont condone bodyboard abuse...  ride whatever you want... but this is hilarious

its bellyboard season

no waves this week, and the boredom has driven me to shape a new alaia bellyboard for myself
its 4'2" and it should absolutely fly
its all about the concave and the chine with these badboys
its deep and it runs nearly the full length of the board
time to burn on the logo.. i love doin this. its very time consuming, but surfboards are usually so neat, where as these logos are burned on freehand.. it really captures the whole piont of timber surfboards, stripping it back to the bare essentials, no frills, no colours, no fibreglass, no resin, no chemicals, no deckgrips, no wax, no legrope, no fins, no rocker, just wood and oil and waves..
halfway.... my arm is getting tired..
finished...now for the measurements
not much to it really... just a plank of wood
nothin left to do but oil it up..
just need some shorebreak to test it on now..
somethin like this oughta do it...


slater and merrick talking about modern performance and its direction. leading the way...in a new direction
finally pro surfing is getting away from being so stale and generic. boooyaah!

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

a picture's worth a thousand words

mid morning barrel, central coast NSW...
makes you want to go surfing no?
photo courtesy of Kerry Down

Monday, September 14, 2009

alaia groove- the journey of the alaia



This is my mate Kerry Down (and friends) again... showing the birth of their alaia, with shots captured on the GoPro Hero Cam, i just picked up one of these myself and they're awsome, ive also fashioned mine into a helmet cam so stay tuned. Till then check out kerry's awesome handiwork.. keep it comin kez.

serious barrel action



this is my good friend Kerry Down using the GoPro Hero Cam for some serious barrell actions ... go son!

Sunday, September 13, 2009

early twin?

14 year old lucas dirske on a 9'0" balsa dual fin
as retro as you can get.
(Malibu 2009)
twins fly, there's just no disputing it.
(Malibu 2009)

Thursday, September 10, 2009

...its all about getting up for the early...

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Monday, September 7, 2009

Wooden Surfboard Course

i recently had the opportunity to attend a Hollow Wooden Surfboard Building class with Paul Jensen from the U.S.A. it was a great week and a great introduction into the art of building timber boards something i had never found the time to do previously... stay tuned you may see a black apache or two recreated in the timber guise soon. watch this space.
the veneer is epoxied and laminated on one side, this shows how vibrant the finished coulours will be
next the frame is mocked up ready to have the skins attached top and bottom
here the deck skin is glued into place
"if you can read this your board is ruined"
a cheeky message i left to make me laugh should the unthinkable ever happen
cinder blocks and clamps... tools that you would not normally associate with surfboard building
nose section
ready for glassing
my newest summer board. bring on summer!
theres a lot of talk about the simmons lately, they seem to be popping up everywhere and thats great they are one of my favourite boards. heres our take though, we moved the fins up, added performance keels, and put a tucked under hard edge in the tail. this board was sooo good i kept it for myself.
the fastest board i have ever ridden.
period. 

covering the bases

got it all covered... 6'4" pintail for the bigger days, 5'11" fish for the fun days,
and the 6'4" alaia for the small days... who's ready to hit the road then??

pink is the new black